Congratulations! You have purchased the finest lateral arm awning on market. "SunFlexx®" is completely pre-assembled and factory tested; it is specifically designed for easy installation.
Before beginning, please familiarize yourself with the components of the awning as shown on the accompanying diagram. It will save you time in the long run. Find the mounting brackets: they will be one of the three types designed specifically for your installation. Brackets #518 and #519 are for wood frame and masonry construction, Bracket #520 is used for soffit mounting.
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The length of the
awning determines the number of brackets, A 6 ft long awning will have
two brackets, a 12 ft - three, a 16 ft - four, and a 21 ft - six brackets.
Use all brackets for secure mounting.
TOOLS REQUIRED
Electric drill,
1/8" and 1/4" drill bit, two 9/16' and one - 3/4" wrenches or sockets,
#1 Phillips screwdriver, stud finder (for wood frame construction), l'
and 4' levels, and chalk line. A heavy duty mason drill with a carbide
bit is required to install brackets on masonry walls.
LOCATING THE BRACKETS
Proper location of the brackets is the most important aspect of the "Sunflexx®" mounting. They must be fastened to studs, joists, headers or other major structural members. Even a moderate wind exerts great force on the awning and mounting brackets. This is why it is most important that all "Sunflexx" mounting brackets be fastened properly and securely. Proper location will also make it easier to insert the support tube when hanging the awning. Included on page one of these instructions is a diagram of a typical two arm "Sunflexx®' awning. Mounting points and the components of the awning have been numbered for easy reference.
You will find points A, B, and C on the support tube (#3) are recommended positions for the mounting brackets. When only two brackets per awning are required, the mounting brackets must be located at points A, and within 1 2' of center to (#l) arm clamp and (#2) bearing end plate. If a third mounting bracket is required, it must be located at point C on the support tube (#3) within 1 2 " of center between the two arm clamps (#l). When two brackets per arm are needed, locate one bracket within 1 2" of center to the arm clamp (#l) and the bearing end plate (#2). The second bracket must not be more than 1 4' from the arm clamp (#2) at mounting point B on the support tube (#3).
To determine the proper height of the mounting brackets refer to the pitch chart below which relates to your awning. Next find the projection on the pitch chart which matches that of the one you are installing. Add the number of inches that are needed from the pitch chart to the height at which you prefer the front rail (#4) when the awning is fully extended. This is considered the optimum installation height but not always obtainable due to low roof heights. Next, snap a level chalk line along the wall at the height you have determined to be the top of the bracket. Make a mark on the wall at the end points of the awning and at the arm clamps (#l).
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INSTALLING THE BRACKETS ON WOOD FRAMED WALLS
You must first locate the studs, joists or header in the area in which the bracket must be installed as explained earlier in LOCATING THE BRACKETS. To find the stud or joists, measure from the edge of a window or door to the approximate area where the bracket is being installed, then on the inside of the wall measure from the same window or door to the same area, and with a stud finder locate the stud and transfer your dimension to the outside wall. Next drill horizontally a series of 1 /8" holes approximately 1 'below the chalk line at the mounting point to locate the edge of the stud or framing. Then measure to the center of the stud and draw a 7" vertical level line. (Never guess to the center of the stud.)
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Position the bracket
holes, centered over the vertical level line and the top of the bracket,
even with the horizontal chalk line. Mark both bracket hole and drill
1/4' pilot holes square to the wall 2 1/2' into the stud orjoist. This
will prevent the framing from splitting while installing the lags. Use
a silicone sealant to fill all of the' 1/8" holes. If done properly the
mounting bracket will cover all the 1/8' holes. Install the bracket with
a 3/8" diameter lag using a length than will penetrate the framing 2 1/2'
to 3" Use a flat washer under the head of the lag. Make sure not to over
tighten, the lags; to do so may split the wood framing or weaken the lag.
"SOFT' WALLS (SHINGLES, VINYL, OR ALUMINUM SIDING, CLAPBOARDS)
This type of construction
require the use of spacers or shims under the brackets to insure that
they are level and to avoid crushing the soft material when the brackets
are tightened. It Is not advisable to cut openings in the siding and recess
the brackets, since this will not allow sufficient clearance for the lateral
arm clamps(#l). The best way to deal with a 'soft' wall is with space
blocks cut out of pressure treated lumber, 1 " or 1 1/2- thick by the
width and height of the mounting bracket. Use a spacer for each bracket.
After locating the studs for each mounting bracket, place the spacer on
the siding in the exact location where your bracket is to be mounted.
Trace all four sides of the spacer on the wall. Using a small circular
saw to cut the siding, remove the cut piece of siding and place the spacer
into the opening to assure the proper fit. Drill two 1/2' diameter holes
into the spacer to align with bracket holes. Drill the two 1/4' pilot
holes square into the framing for your brackets. Insert the spacer into
the opening and place the mounting bracket on top and lag both into wall.
Be sure to seal around the spacer and the siding. An alternative method
where the 'soft' wall is flat, is to lag a 2' x 8' header the length of
the awning, at the proper height, and bolt the brackets, to it. With clapboards
or shingles, tapered shims may also be used under the brackets.
BOWED WALLS
You may find when
stretching a chalk line from one bracket to another, that the wall is
bowed. In this case, either the end brackets or the intermediate brackets
must be spaced outward from the wall by shims to insure proper alignment.
MASONRY OR CONCRETE
WALLS Our #518 and #519 mounting brackets are also used when installing
the 'Sunflexx®' on masonry and concrete walls. Follow the same procedure
to locate each bracket as earlier explained in LOCATING THE BRACKETS.
Always use caution when choosing masonry or concrete fasteners to mount
the brackets. When mounting on any masonry or concrete surface be certain
that the wall has not deteriorated. If this is the case through-bolting
may be necessary, When mounting on typical hollow core block walls you
will need to through-bolt or use a high quality toggle bolt. Due to the
many variations of masonry installation, we strongly recommend you call
your local fastener supplier for their recommendations on choosing the
proper concrete anchors.
ROOF MOUNT INSTALLATION
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Locate the center
of each of the roof rafters as explained in LOCATING THE BRACKETS, then
place the roof bracket approximately 1" back from the edge of the roof.
Note: some roof edges can be severely rotted and the bracket may have
to be moved accordingly. Align the elongated holes of the lower plate
over the rafters and mark their position. Carefully pilot drill a 1/4'
hole at a 90 degree angle into the rafter where marked, and apply a 1/2"
high bead of silicone sealant in a 2' circle around each hole. Apply a
1/2" bead of silicone sealant to the underside of the roof bracket, along
the left, right and top edges to form a horseshoe of sealant leaving the
bottom open. Bolt all brackets to the roof using a 3/8" diameter lag and
a length that will penetrate the rafter 2 1 /2' to 3". Adjust the roof
mount bracket angle accordingly and fasten the adjusting plates. Bolt
a continuous pressure treated 2' x 8" along the top edge of the roof mount
brackets. Using 1/2' diameter caniage bolts fasten all 'Sunflexx' mounting
brackets in their proper location to the 2'x 8" lumber. You may install
the Sunflexx mounting brackets directly to the roof mount brackets, eliminating
the need for a 2'x 8' header board.
INSTALLING THE
HOOD
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It is important to
install the hood before the awning. Using the 5/16' x 1 " bolts provided,
slide the correct number of bolt heads into the extruded slots of the
inboard half of the hood, The number of bolts in each slot should correspond
to the number of brackets. Be sure to use two hood bolts per bracket.
Carefully lower the hood onto the brackets and guide the bolts through
the appropriate holes. Then, using the supplied nuts and washers, carefully
tighten the nuts and attach end covers.
INSTALLING THE AWNING
Leave the retaining
straps in place (if provided), until installation has been completed.
With proper help, lift the awning into position so the ends line up with
the points marked on the ceiling or wall. Insert the retaining bolts into
the brackets. Be sure to install a washer under the bolt head and then
tighten securely. The retaining bolts should slip in easily. If not, slight
pressure on the support tube should permit insertion. If there is still
a problem, loose the bracket mounting bolts until the retaining bolts
fit, then retighten bolts.
AWNING ADJUSTMENT AND PITCH RECOMMENDATIONS
After the awning has been installed, making sure all bolts have been tightened and packing materials removed, extend the awning to its full projection. The folding arms (#5) will still be slightly angled.
Setting the correct pitch is one of the most important details to protect the "Sunflexx®" from rain damage. Extend the awning to its fullest projection, keeping the fabric as taut as possible. Using a 4' level or larger, place the level on the top of the front rail and set the pitch of the fabric to the pitch chart on page five of these instructions, If there are ever questions regarding this procedure, call the factory for additional information.
Our Urethane Compression Joint is designed for easy adjustment. All that is needed is one 3/4" wrench when a up to 22 degrees of pitch is required.
When additional
pitch Is needed, remove the hole in the urethane center hub and replace
it in the lower slots of the outer plates. Tighten the bolt with the nylock
nut securely, then back off the nylock nut about 1 /8 turn allowing the
bolt to turn using a wrench. This ensures the Urethane Compression System
will work properly, You are now able to pitch the awning as much as 45
degrees.
SUNFLEXX® WITH ELECTRIC MOTOR
Mount the awning in the same manner as a manually operated awning. An electrical diagram, supplied with the Somfy switch will indicate the proper connections to 120-volt AC service. Do not adjust the motor, which has been tested and preset at the factory. Before wiring two or more Somfy motors together please contact Somfy for important wiring Information.
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